![]() ![]() ![]() Working with propane and 120-volt household electricity can be dangerous. This part heats the water within the tank. RV water heaters often have a submerged electric element. These models allow the user to flip a switch inside the RV to light the propane burner on the water heater. This is the most common type of water heater in today’s RVs. These are typically found on basic or older RV models. ![]() It utilizes a standing pilot light which has to be lit from the outside of the RV. That valve is located on the exterior side of the RV. In this type of RV water heater, the gas valve controlling the propane is manually activated. The element can be used in conjunction with propane, which heats water faster. Some may also contain an electric element in addition to propane. The most common types of water heaters found in RVs contain a tank primarily heated by the burning of propane gas. No one likes a cold shower! Mike do not cover Troubleshooting tankless RV water heaters in this article) Overview: The 3 Types of RV Water Heaters And, when that thing happens to be your water heater, it’s even more upsetting. I don't have any accurate numbers, just know pressure increases in the system when water is heated.As an RVer, there are few things more frustrating than when things in an RV don’t work properly. I don't know what size the air pocket is so can't say what the compression ratio is. mptjelgin suggested that the number was closer to 2%. If volume increases 3%, that would be an increase in the 10 gallon water heater of. The gauge would have to be installed in the house plumbing itself. Pressure increases can't back up from the house plumbing to the gauge. However, any increase in house pressure from the water heater won't be shown on that gauge because there is a check valve between the gauge and the house plumbing. I use a watts regulator on my supply hose also. If BarbOK is reading this, I think that she as a chemist may have better information on this, In reading about water volume versus pressures, I can't find anything specific to actual pressures, but it does state that water volume can increase by about 3% when heated from supply temperatures to set temperatures. The one that I had was 6 years old and I pitched it last spring. My regulator was kept at 50# when cold and my current, non-adjustable regulator is preset to 45#. This is a picture of one nearly identical to what I used more recently and although this one is from Valterra and mine was from Camco I do not remember ever seeing mine more than barely into the low side of the red band. When we were fulltime I used a Watts, whole house pressure regulator that was adjustable and it had an output pressure gauge on it. I need to replace the one that I have used in the past as it died so I don't have one currently. I'd be interested to know what your readings are. Or does it have more to do with the pipe size when dealing with gravity fed water? How much pressure would be the minimum needed to push the water through the water heater and to the shower? You get. And since I'm already planning on buying a better Honda WX10 water pump with allot more head in case the stream is allot lower, why not pump the water to a elevated tank so that you could have enough pressure without needing to run that annoying RV water pump? I know, sort of silly hoisting a tank from the tongue of my trailer into a tree and then filling it. I want to pump stream water again next time I'm in colorado because I usually camp in the same spot all week. Yes, I unscrewed it and set it on bubble wrap. ![]() When I had company, we ran out in 3 days and weren't about to pack up our beautiful campsite just for more water so we pumped stream water into the tank for showers only which worked great! Second, was the noise the water pump made. Mainly, it didn't have enough fresh water storage at 45 gallons. I'm building a small toyhauler from a 16' narrow track enclosed trailer and have been thinking about what bothered me most about the water system on my old 24' toyhauler. ![]()
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