Gummy squishies7/8/2023 “Not all gummy candies are created equal,” she said. She leans toward the softer varieties with vivid colors. She has an abundance of choices: oozy jelly-filled shapes, super-sour chews and foamy, marshmallowy creations. She layers various shapes onto acrylic trays to make candy “charcuterie.” In one of her most popular arrangements, bears are squished alongside an ombré rainbow of stars, butterflies and other springy creatures. The nation also led the world in gummy sales, followed by China and Germany, according to data from Euromonitor. Sales of chewy candy in the United States, which includes gummies, hit $4.6 billion in 2021, a nearly 15% increase from the previous year, according to the market research company IRI. The pandemic has been a boon for candy makers, as customers turn to the comfort of an inexpensive sugar rush. In 1985, the medieval-themed adventures of the Gummi family in Disney’sanimated series “Adventures of the Gummi Bears” solidified the candy in the American pop-culture canon - as the theme song put it, “bouncing here and there, and everywhere.” The Indiana-based company Albanese unleashed its famously soft bears in 1983 and soon, gummies abandoned the bear altogether - cue Trolli’s writhing worms and the Sour Patch Kids from Mondelez. A year later, Haribo set up its first distribution center in the United States. (later renamed Jelly Belly) introduced the first American-made gummy bear. Matthew Beverley at home in Mount Pearl, Newfoundland, with his collection of Haribo gummy candy (Source: The New York Times) GUMMY CANDY DIDN’T take off in the United States until the 1980s. The company said it had helped start an initiative to improve working conditions in production of carnauba wax, and now uses only beeswax. In response, Haribo said last week that it had looked into all the allegations and found no evidence that it or its wax suppliers had ever used forced labor. In 2017, the company said it was investigating assertions that slave labor was being used at plantations in Brazil that supplied the carnauba wax it used to keep gummies from sticking together. In 2000, Time magazine reported that the candy maker had been “named in the German parliament as having used forced labor,” after it declined to join other German companies in donating money to support surviving enslaved or forced laborers. Like many German companies, Haribo has come under scrutiny for its operations during World War II. The densely chewy, gelatin-based gummies were modeled after real-life dancing bears, a form of entertainment at the time, and later rebranded as Goldbears. It’s also probably a far cry from what candy maker Hans Riegel had in mind in 1922, when he adapted a recipe for fruit-flavored pastilles to create the first gummy bear (or Gummibär, German for “rubber bear”) for his nascent sweets company, Haribo. “It’s not surprising that they are turning up everywhere else. “Gummies are the most popular kind of candy,” said Marcia Mogelonsky, a director of insight at the marketing analysis firm Mintel Food & Drink.
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